All this is against a backdrop of
industrious Israelis, building communities, rebuilding a nation long scattered
and persecuted, but now, on the rise, and even now, actively engaged with peace
talks with their neighbors.
Here, Christians can walk where Jesus
walked, pray where he is purported to have prayed and worship where he may have
been laid to rest, and from whence he rose.
Yet, not all Christians are afforded
this privilege. Palestinian Christians, who make up less than 3% of the
population of the West Bank, are not allowed. Descendants of the first
people to look on the face of Christ, they are excluded from worship at the
holiest of Christians sites because of their ethnicity.
And for an overwhelming majority of
these Christians without a country, even the church that serves them does so at
arm's length. The Greek Orthodox Church, traditionally the vehicle of
their faith, allows Palestinians to worship but not to govern.
Palestinians may become priests, if they are married, but to be a bishop
in the Greek orthodox faith, you cannot be married.
Still, Palestinian Christians,
maintain their faith, hanging onto hope for peace with justice and a better life
while the wheels of progress turn around them, disrupting their lives and
quashing dreams and initiative with the efficiency of the bulldozers that
routinely demolish their homes and communities.
Recently, one of these Palestinian
Christians visited Texas, and while in Midland, he spoke to various church
groups in hope of generating support of the peace-with-justice movement going
among human rights activists and church groups.
Ghassan Andoni spoke last Sunday at
First United Methodist Church. Andoni, a professor of physics, Christian
and social activist, doesn't cause any interior bells to ring when he shakes
hands or greets the people waiting to hear his message. He speaks
conversationally in a quiet voice and establishes eye contact with just about
everyone in his audience.
He eases into the telling, speaking
conversationally in a voice so quiet that it has a quietening effect on the
room. "Our town comes from two major families, so in this town
everyone is my cousin or my uncle," he explains. "It's a nice
environment if you can handle privacy problems. Our life is oriented
around the church, more socially than religiously. I have to be in every
wedding in the town of about 15,000 people, and every funeral, so I have to be
in the church 10 to 20 hours a week.
"This is a town where you know
everything about everybody. We don't have CNN there, but we have lip
service and there are no secrets." Now his audience is comfortable,
smiling. Andoni continues . "There are nice things about this
community. We don't have to worry about whether our kids are going to get
into drugs, or use alcohol, or get involved with a rough crowd, because they're
all relatives. "What we do worry about is who is going to be killed
next, where the next bomb will explode, what will happen tomorrow. That is
a real worry for everyone of us.
"And every now and then, the
problem is a bit of a lack of privacy, when you badly need time for yourself to
do work, because people are jumping into your office all the time, wanting to
talk, or to have coffee."
Andoni lives in the Palestinian
village of Beit Sahour, on Israel's West Bank, just a stone's throw from
Bethlehem and the Church of the Nativity, a half hour's drive from
Jerusalem. But he cannot go there without a permit. His ancestors were among the shepherds who heard the angel's announcement of Jesus' birth, who
rushed down the hill to the stable to see him, but Andoni cannot go there.
Not without a permit.
His ancestors were there when Jesus
was sentenced to death and led on the dreadful walk to Golgotha. They
heard the news in much the same way as they would hear it today -by lip
service. But they cannot go to worship at the Church of the Nativity, or
of the Holy Sepulcher. Not without a permit. And permits, according to
Andoni, are hard to come by.
"It's easier for me to come to
Midland, Texas, than to go to Jerusalem and pray in the Holy Sepulcher," he
says. "I would have to apply for a permit, I would have to come up with a
very good reason."
"Praying in the church is not a
good reason. If I have a serious illness and can not get medical help here, I
might have a small chance of getting a permit."
Andoni, who is a physics professor at
Birzeit University just north of Jerusalem, would seem on the face of things to
have a very good reason for traveling through Jerusalem. Yet, he can't get
a permit. Jerusalem is closed to Palestinians; therefore, to get to work, Andoni
travels in a wide circle east from his home every each morning toward
Jordan, then just before reaching Jericho, he turns and takes a road leading
north, then finally turning south to Birzeit. The drive takes two hours or
sometimes less.
Restrictions aren't limited to
mobility, Andoni says, but to almost every daily activity.
Palestinians for the most part are
forbidden to engage in commerce with anyone except Israelis. To establish a
business or develop a factory takes a permit.
Especially problematic, Andoni says,
is the ownership or real estate. He explains that this is probably the most
crippling restriction of all the Palestinians.
"We don't have oil in our area,
and no minerals, no high-tech industry, so the criteria for wealth is
land."
"In little towns like ours , and
most Palestinian towns are little towns, if you have land you are wealthy, and
if you don't have land, you are poor. Yet a small officer can sign a paper that
will cause you to loose your land immediately without the chance to be
compensated, or to fight for it legally. Within 24 hours, the family is
bankrupt."
Andoni described the constant threat
to homes and property as a feeling akin to being caged.
"This is a very difficult
situation, because you feel that you have lost all dignity. That's why there are
often protests, and even clashes, which are always seen as a challenge to
authority, which is not allowed."
Yet, times are marginally better now
than in the past, and eve in the worst of times, Palestinians use their wit and
their humor to alleviate the suffering.
Andoni illustrates his point with a
story from the Intifada days of 1987, when Palestinians erupted and fought back
by throwing stones and demonstrating against the tight control.
"At that time, the little town of
Beit Sahour was either under curfew or siege, with major problems. We hadn't
enough food and we were worried about the children.
"A group of us thought of a very
easy way of taking care of the children - by starting a little farm.
"We were mostly professional
people, not farmers, and we hadn't a clue what a cow needed, but we went
to an Israeli kibbutz and bought 18 cows, and brought them back to Beit Sahour.
"We prepared them a place and
hired someone to care for them and milk them. Young people volunteered to take
bottles of the milk to every home with children.
"But the third or fourth day, we
were visited by the military commander of the area. He said, 'This is illegal.
This is a security threat of the state of Israel.' We said we needed time to get
rid of them, and he left. Later, soldiers came back with cameras, and they took
pictures, front and side of each cow, with the numbers that all Israeli kibbutz
cows have. We didn't understand why they took those pictures. Were the cows
terrorists?
"They threatened the neighboring
villagers where we had been getting water. So at midnight, we took our trucks to
the place we had built for them, and took the cows away.
"We had made an agreement with a
butcher in the town to hide the cows in his cave. If the army found the cows, he
was to say that he had bought them , and was going to slaughter them.
"Now, suddenly, the commander
realized that before, he had known where the terrorist cows could be
found. If there is anything worse than having a terrorist cow in your
town, it is having a terrorist cow somewhere and you can't find her.
"They began to take people to
prison, and to torture them, and in a few days, they sent choppers out over the
hills to try to find the cows. Finally they did find them, and the butcher told
the story as he had agreed.. But he said that he couldn't slaughter the cows
just yet, because they were pregnant. The commander was frustrated. He took the
butcher to prison. They tortured people. They wanted the cows out of there.
"Then, we tried something else.
We stopped paying taxes, and we separated the cows. Taking two to one place, two
to another, most to places out of town, and making it very difficult for the
soldiers to find our cows.
"Finally, the commander must have
decided that since the cows were missing again, they would drop the
matter."
Andoni said he saw the military
commander two years later, at a meeting in another town.
"He had been promoted. He
recognized me as one of the people he had put in prison, and the first thing he
asked me was, 'Where are the cows?'"
Since that time, Andoni has
continually worked toward the establishment of a workable relationship between
Palestinian and Israelis. He said relations between Palestinian Christians and
their Muslim neighbors are amiable, made palatable by centuries of living
together.
A recent effort has been the
establishment of rapprochement centre, where Palestinians attempt to communicate
with Israelis on a peaceful basis.
"We said, 'OK, guys, we are
engaged in a fight, we don't deny it, and we are the bad guys, because we want
our independence. We can't tolerate you, and therefore we are going to fight
against you.
"But why don't we fight in the
morning and chat in the afternoon? At least, we will be humans to each other, so
that when you pull the trigger, you will know who it is you're shooting. When we
throw the stones, we will know who it is we're stoning."
Andoni said that while the centre has
made some headway, he was imprisoned by one of the men involved in the talks.
"A man who was involved in the
Holocaust Museum had the authority to arrest people. But he shook my hand before
he arrested me and delivered me to the prison, and I have no hard feelings. He
was apologetic and he was trying to be nice.
"We realized from the beginning
that this is not a talk between allies, this is a a talk between enemies."
Andoni is also involved in the
promotion of a Palestinian tour organization called "Alternative
Tourism," which conducts tours of the Holy Land from a different
perspective than the Israeli tours.
"In 30 years, there have been
about 60 million people tour the Holy Land," he said. "If Palestine
can get 3 percent of the tourists who come here, we could add about $1 billion
to the Palestinian economy.
"On the other hand, we want to
see people look at the area more objectively, to get to know both sides, so that
we can overcome some persistent stereotypes. We bring tourists not only to
Christian towns, but also to Muslim towns. We want to show people the Holy Land
as it really is."
He said another aim of the Alternative
Tourism group is to bring appeal to Palestinian Christians.
"Thirty years ago, Christians
made up about 10 percent of the population of Palestinians in the West Bank. Now
there are less than three percent," he said.
"I visited Santiago, Chile, two
years ago, and while I was there, I discovered that there are more than 100,000
Palestinian Christian living there, and most of them came from Bethlehem. There
are only about 50,000 Christians living in Bethlehem now, so I can see that if
we don't find some way to offer employment opportunities, and to make life
better, there will come a day when there are no Palestinian Christians left in
the Holy Land, where Christianity started."
Story by Johnnye
Montgomery